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Jim
09-01-2007, 01:39 PM
How does it work?

Whiteline KCA395 - Lancer EVO VII-VIII-IX front roll centre adjusting kit - Part 1

The following psots by Jim Gurieff have been taken from a forum thread appearing on Evolutionm.net forums at http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?p=3833998 . It follows a discussion on the capacity of KCA395 to enhance advanced suspension setups inlcuding coil-overs. These posts help explain the underlying geometry, why the kit was designed and how it works. It provides a practical explanation and overview of the basic principals of roll centres, roll axis and roll couple.
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Posted 22nd December 2006

Looks like we have an apology to make to our WRX supporters

We targeted the EVO first because quite frankly, it has a bigger problem in this area. And by "this area", we mean front roll centre, not "ball joint extenders", "camber curve correctors" nor any other issue that may be addressed by other products currently in the market. That is, the copy of the bulletin for KCA395 at the beginning of the thread refers to a solution specific to the front roll centre problem we perceive on the EVO but we don't want to get involved in interpreting other manufacturers products and claims.

All strut based systems are prone to migrating roll centre issues due to the nature of the underlying geometry. In the EVO, front roll compounds and accentuates front roll forcing people to adopt all sorts of "band-aid" solutions to what is fundamentally a geometry problem. Our race testing on Project EVO showed the classic symptoms that was backed up by some measurements so we went to the drawing board (no experience with ball joints etc) and worked out a possible solution. Made some prototypes and everyone seemed happy (Project EVO had best times in slalom and technical sections in Dutton 2006 national tarmac rally series :banana: ). Next job was to do some durability testing before pushing the production button.

So I guess that's the good news, in our minds the WRX is not drastically affected by the roll centre problem. The other good news is that we are working on a product for the WRX but the bad news is that we're a few months away from being able to release details of the products contents and configuration.

Sorry its not more positive news but that's where we are at.
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Posted 2nd Jan 2007

Robbi suggested that I might like to jump in and answer some of the questions on this thread. Unfortunately our office has been closed until today so I apologies for the delay.

I'd like to go through some of the issues raised in point form;

- We don't like to refer to these products as a "ball joint extender" or "spacer" kit as that implies that we've simply added some bits to a kit of standard parts which is not true. The replacement hardware has been designed specifically for the job by well established tier 1 ball joint suppliers that use FEA during the production engineering process. To my knowledge they are not OE suppliers but we have test fitted many sets here before release and are comfortable with the longevity and integrity of the interference fit between alloy arm and housing. We also clocked many months of trouble free road and competition kilometres before approving production.

- Joe Henry is correct in saying that this is a very sensitive area and that's why the amount of RC change we deliver is less than 10 mm. That's right, not 38 mm or 25 mm but LESS than 10 mm. This is not "rocket science" but it is our own proprietary recipe and we would prefer not to disclose the exact numbers. What I can confirm is that the design process did include mapping the roll centres, centre of gravity and roll axis meaning it was done front and rear. This was then modelled via simulation software to ascertain the level of migration relative to various static ride heights and roll angles. The critical thing here is that the front to rear relationship and resultant roll axis first needs to be properly understood before one can work out a sensible solution at the front.

- Continuing on that theme, the problem with simply lowering ride height on this and most other strut based cars is that the RC plunges exponentially with compression. That is, the further you compress the outside strut the more it lengthens the roll couple (referred to as "torque arm for roll" by Joe Henry) which serves to magnify the trait in a continuing loop. Hence, lowering the static ride height without adjusting the RC puts the car further in to the danger zone requiring larger and larger springs and or bars to try to hold up the nose. Fitting the KCA395 allowed us to use softer spring rates to promote wheel articulation and maximise the contact patch.

- Roll centres, roll couple, roll axis and all these related themes are one of the real brain-teasers of suspension setup and geometry change but they are fundamental to the basic design and behaviour of the chassis. To a degree, the innate chassis balance of a vehicle is determined by this relationship. AYC however is about torque distribution or power delivery and its effect on balance under power or acceleration. That is, a poor roll centre outcome will affect the chassis, balance and driver at all stages of the corner from entry to exit. AYC however is designed to maximise power delivery to the road with a resultant affect on chassis balance. As quoted by Mitsubishi itself, "Super AYC 6 traction control" with the word "traction" being the key. Changes to roll centre will therefore be felt irrespective of AYC but AYC can mask roll centre, balance and geometry problems... enough said there I think :-wink.

- The KCA395 is designed to work with stock wheels and brakes. That is, it does not impinge on either or on sensible upgrades to either.

Like all active torque distribution or traction systems, AYC has a bearing on how the car drives. The Impreza STi uses DCCD with the current generation also incorporating a yaw sensor. We had to purchase one to keep ourselves current with the dynamic behaviour as it does have an impact however it does not change the basic geometry of the car. Needless to say we have conducted many race tests with Project EVO on various settings using various components before signing off on the parts. However, thinking about this logically, the lack of a stock AYC system on US cars would suggest that fixing stuff like the roll centre would become even more important.
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Jim
09-01-2007, 01:47 PM
How does it work?

Whiteline KCA395 - Lancer EVO VII-VIII-IX front roll centre adjusting kit - Part 2
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Posted 3rd Jan 2007

John, as previously mentioned, the KCA395 kit was designed for stock wheels, tyres and brakes (JDM) which are 17" with Brembo's. Therefore they should clear anything larger than that and I would imagine, even wheels with aggressive offsets. We're not wheel experts so can't comment on exact offset measurement off the top of my head but suffice to say we try to do things right. We support 2 cars, MRT Performance Project EVO 9 (another JDM car) which uses the factory 17's with Yokohama ADVAN 225 mm intermediates (semi-slicks) and the Whiteline EVO 8 which uses white Enkei 17's with Dunlop D02 intermediates in 235 mm. Both are used to test the products and this includes fitment with larger wheels purely for car shows.

Not sure what you mean about the power levels used for testing, both cars run around 240kw at the wheels measured with a hub dyno but we find that the biggest stress factors are actually braking and high load corners with "ripple" or bump strips impact at high frequency. To illustrate, I have attached a copy of a standard G circle plot we use when testing that shows a typical run with our EVO 8 on the Dunlop's at our preferred test circuit. Its a technical track with relatively poor surface which suits us fine as we're trying to bridge road and time attack type use as our main target. As you can see from the plots, acceleration G's peak at just over 0.5 where as braking loads are more than double with peaks of 1.2. On the lateral G side, being a clockwise circuit, the left hand corner (right side of image) max G's peak at 1.35 with solid sampling still at around 1.2. Hitting a kerb strip at these loads is equivalent to over 4x shock load with a large part of that borne by the ball joint.

We do not know what limits the ball joint manufacturers use in their testing, we could probably find out but frankly that's why we chose a good supplier. However, we still prefer to do some real world testing as you can see. The interesting thing here is that one of the weakest links in this whole chain we've found is the stock proximity of the ball joint to the brake rotor. Our testing has shown that stock ball joint dust boots start to burn as rotor temperatures reach 600+ deg C and careless treatment of the car with out sufficient cool-down dramatically shortens the ball joint life for obvious reasons.

For the record, I'd like to better clarify the quoted post before re "no experience with ball joints etc". What we were trying to say (quite poorly really) was that we've had little experience in designing ball joints though we've had quite a bit of experience with geometry change products. The modified ball joint is simply a means to an end for achieving a particular target outcome in the roll centre and bump steer area. But knowing the sensitivity of the part we got some help from the experts once we had established the precise desired dimensional change.

nothere, again I think we could have made our point clearer. What we were trying to explain is that we actually strive to use the softest spring possible when setting up. This is consistent with the whole Whiteline philosophy and for anyone interested, we explain why here. http://www.suspensionparts.info/showthread.php?t=272 . The upshot of all those words is that to maximise the quality and regularity of the tyre contact patch, you need to use as soft a spring as you can get away with to maximise wheel articulation. Using a heavier than necessary spring rate that helps to resist body roll will mean that you're likely to have too much rate for mid corner surface changes resulting in a reaction by the body AWAY from the road taking the wheel/tyre with it.

Needless to say these are very general goals and are affected by many parameters but we can use our EVO 8 as an example. This is arguably the fastest time attack and tarmac rally EVO in Australia with 3 straight years at 1st place in the Dutton Rally national series. As already mentioned, it runs Dunlop semi-slicks but the spring rates are 7kg front and rear (approx 392lb). To be fair, this car is fully caged and weighs less than 1300kg's but a road going EVO with out cage would only use 8-8.5kg springs in our setup which is comparatively very low (the top 5 fastest EVO's use our setup). We actually aim for the lightest spring rate but this is only possible once you've up-rated swaybar sizes and dealt with a lot of other small geometry change issues both front and rear.

So, getting back to your question, I'm not sure what springs, tyres, swaybars you're running but the changes delivered by the KCA395 are meant to be universal positives irrespective of other band-aid mods or changes as it deals with the fundamental chassis balance of the car. That is, whatever your performance EVO does now, in our view it will be able to do it better with the roll centre change.

Jim
09-01-2007, 01:57 PM
How does it work?

Whiteline KCA395 - Lancer EVO VII-VIII-IX front roll centre adjusting kit - Part 3
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Posted by Joe Henry 5th Jan 2007

Sorry I haven't written any technical "white" papers for everyone, I just haven't had any time to commit to a well written tutorial that could get nit-picked if some stuff isn't clear. I usually write in fairly layman's terms here, just because it's meant for general consumption.

OK, I'll try to help clear up some things here. I've been following Whiteline's products for sometime. They do know what they're doing and they're very good at it. There may be some differences in philosophy about which path reaches the final goal, which is grip and lap times. Paul, myself, and many others, believe that larger sway bars make an independent suspension "less independent." If the sway bar were perfectly rigid, when one side compresses during a turn, the other must also compress. This will cancel each other meaning no roll, in theory. In reality, the outside tire will compress as much as it can, while rolling over on the side wall, and the inside tire will be lifted off the ground. Very stiffly sprung solid axle cars behave similar to this. Putting power to a lightly or unloaded wheel will just spin it. Sway bars certainly have their place, they reduce roll without having to increase spring rate, it's a great trick. Too much of anything is bad though. We prefer to use the sway bar as a fine tuning device, not depending on it as the major contributor of anti-roll.

Now geometry. I use the term torque arm because anyone who has used a wrench can understand leverage. The longer the arm, the more leverage. The engineering term is force-couple or moment, in vehicle dynamics it's roll-moment. This leverage works against the springs, sway bars, and shocks during cornering. The more leverage, the stiffer *everything* has to be to resist roll. Raise the roll center (RC) so that it's closer to the center of gravity (CG), and the roll-moment has been reduced. Softer springs, anti-roll bars, and dampers can now accomplish the same roll resisting effect. This has the extra benefit of allowing more compliance over bumps, and there are no race tracks that have no bumps, even super speedway ovals. Deciding how much spring, damping, and anti-roll depends on the roll-moment distance, static and dynamic, and this is constrained by the ultimate grip. An Evo that generates only 1g doesn't need 1000lb/in springs, it's overkill and it will wear the tires down too fast. The softest values you can "get away with" for any suspension component will produce the most grip and yield the best tire temps and wear. That is just plain fact. Ok, getting slightly off topic, but geometry definitely matters. The balance does as well.

A neutral car by definition makes the same grip, front and rear. Understeer has less front grip and oversteer has less rear grip. All things being equal, raising the front roll center will stiffen the front, causing more weight transfer percentage across the front (vs. the rear). This will lead to understeer. On the plus side, the camber curve is improved, meaning less positive camber gain during roll, meaning more contact patch on the ground at all times, and more grip. It might be a wash. If it's not, you will have to use softer front springs to regain the front grip. The other problem with the Evo front roll center is how quickly it migrates outward during roll, meaning the roll-moment grows exponentially. This causes the front end roll resistance to decrease exponentially as well. You see this in situations where initial corner entry is good, but towards the apex, the front just flops over. You then lose grip because of excessive camber and toe changes. The stock roll center position is horrible, it migrates to infinity in around 2 degrees of roll. I think this might be some built in understeer from Mitsu. Either raise the car or lower it, but don't leave it there. Lower too much and the roll center dives undergound at an exponential rate, but doesn't migrate much during roll. Now, with chosen tires (grip level), you can pick RC height, spring, and anti-roll rates finding the best compromise out of all situations, but it takes a lot of time and testing. All of this info is a bit dumbed down for easy reading and only covers the basics. If we talk about the geometric roll axis versus the actual then you'll be wishing you took the blue pill.

We've worked very hard to find the best compromise point with ride height, spring rate, sway bar rate, and matched damping for corner entry/exit and bump control. I can't say that adding this piece to our existing setup will make it better, it may be worse, because remember the suspension is a system. If anyone still wants to try one, I'd say lower the front even more, because the Whiteline ball joints will recover the RC and camber curves. Unfortunately the bumpsteer will be worse, unless someone makes a longer tie-rod outer ball joint. Anyone who tries one of these is free to PM me for advice, because I'd like to know how it works out.

Lastly, safety. Calculating the "real" loads that go thru the ball joint are nearly impossible, to do it right, you have to measure using strain gauges. Anything else is an estimate and a sizable safety margin needs to be used. The stock ball joint is incredibly strong, I've seen proof in crash photos, and from force measurements from similar ball joints. Everthing else will bend before that does, but if it shears you will have no control over that wheel, steering or otherwise. Whiteline is smart to use an OEM type manufacturer for this. It reduces their liability because they don't actually produce the part. The OEM also has experience in this area. Based on everything else they do, I would trust it.

So, bottom line. The suspension is a system. A poorly setup car may certainly improve from this, a well sorted car may need to get resorted, but don't quote me. This is also a major safety item, but Whiteline is very reputable.

Joe Henry - Vishnu Ohlins tuner
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Jim Gurieff reply posted 6th Jan 2007

I'd like to say that we very much enjoy participating in these technical discussions. One of our new slogans is "we don't do bling" so we really appreciate being able to discuss the technical basis of our products

Joe, thanks for the positive words about the Whiteline brand. I suspect that like so many other topics, suspension setup discussion can sometime fall into the same category as religion and politics, something that should not be discussed in polite conversation. Once you get past the science, physics and maths it seems that all you're left with is faith in your own perspective and experience. There are many ways to achieve the same outcome and I am very happy to support anything that moves us to more total grip, that's where good suspension setup starts and ends in our view.

I would like to study the other posts a little more before commenting in detail but at the moment I'd like to clarify a comment re soft springs and hard swaybars. Its not that we don't like increasing spring rate, its just that we prefer a more holistic approach and try to increase the relative rate of all "springs" in the system as we move toward higher performance levels and stickier tyres. That of course includes swaybars and springs but also involves chassis stiffness through extra bracing etc. Hence my earlier point about our recipe for springs varying between caged and non-caged cars even when using the same tyres. We continue to increase swaybar rate along with spring rate but it is fair to say that physical spring rate increases disproportionately more the closer we get to the level of slicks. However, any Whiteline balanced performance setup will always include stiff swaybars front and rear fromt he beginning. The other key aspect of the Whiteline philosophy is to always use as little total or overall spring rate as you can, where ever it may be while remembering that the actual rate at the tyre contact patch is all that matters.

Speaking of tyres, we saw a mention of Hoosiers and high lateral G's relative to our G-plot. In Australia the Hoosiers are treated as "slicks" in the class structure and are not allowed in the intermediate or "semi-slick" tyre class where most of our work is done. This also relates to the swaybar/spring argument as we push bigger bars very heavily for amateur and enthusiast upgrades as we find its the easiest and most cost effective way to increase grip on a road car thanks to the reserve grip capacities of most road tyres, even stock. Very early in our WRX development our skid pan logs showed we could increase lateral G's by a couple of points just by increasing rear swaybar size with no other changes. This is often overlooked on modern cars and people are quite surprised when they experience it.

Joe, one thing that has not really been teased out by anyone else so far is the issue of front to rear roll axis and its affect in this equation. One of the reasons why we keep the change down to under 10mm is to keep the balance with the rear, we don't want to invert the roll axis to a nose-up stance. The rear end is not a classic strut config and roll centre change is much more contained. Balance is the key.

The KCA395 kit includes modified tie rod ends so the bump steer curve is also addressed. Anyone wanting to try the kit is welcome to contact our US distributor Global Performance Parts and see if they can do a deal, don't quote me but they might be interested.

PS. Joe, isn't it also fair to say that a physically stiffer spring will also "make an independent suspension less independent" when you consider the body and the law of equal and opposite reactions?