Camber change query

[Enchanter]

Iam currently building a basic club car ( not road registered )
1980 GH Mistubishi Scorpion, 2.6 + twin 45mm webers
lowered 1 inch, sports shocks, urethane bushes all round.
Performance road tyres.

I have changed the struts with a newer car ( GJ, next model up ), long story.
This will change the camber of the front tyres as the GJs front track width is about 5cm wider than the GHs but the strut tops will obviously be bolted in the same spot.

My question is will this result in a possitive or negitive handling change.

I beleive it would be benificial but my father disagrees and wants to modify the strut tops. :confused:

Thanks for replies

[Peter]

G'day Enchanter,

I really like these easy ones :)

I think you will have to be tolerant with me here as I cannot see what you have in front of you :)

The altered track of 50mm equals 25mm each side - lets just concentrate on one side at a time :)

The alteration in track could be due to many variables including;
1. Wheel offset and rim size,
2. Spindle and hub dimensions
3. Lower control arm length.
4. Clevis attachment point dimensions and angles
5. Clevis offset and angle to centreline of strut.
To name some of the variables.

I suggest that will have to measure the struts and clevis - this will determine the attachment angle etc.

A set of camber adjusting bolts will probably be necessary to adjust the camber angle. To achieve this, remove the top clevis bolt and measure it.

Part # KCA414 replaces a 14mm bolt and KCA412 replaces a 12mm bolt etc.

I trust the above is at least partly helpful :)

PS: How big is your Dad :)

Cheers

Peter
peter@whiteline.com.au

[Enchanter]

The track width change is due to the lower control arm length. Im just wondering what is likely to happen to the handling of the car.

I imagine I will get less under steer from the new width, and perhaps a touch more grip from the front tyres when cornering hard from the camber change.

Does this sound right or should I go to that extra length and mod the strut tops so that the camber is the same as factory?

Thanks

[Peter]

What exactly have you changed ?? I take it that you have replaced both the struts and the lower control arms from the later model. If this is the case, then measure the centre to centre distance between the strut tops and the lower control arm pivot pins of both vehicles. If these are the same there should be no alteration in front camber settings.

Using a camber adjusting bolt kit to replace the upper clevis bolt will allow you to adjust the camber to what you require.

Understeer will be affected by the front roll stiffness (compared to the rear roll stiffness).

Fitting a front and rear swaybar will assist in this regard particularly on this chassis.

The 10/97-2/82 GE, GH uses Front swaybar BMF37 and Rear BMR36.

You should also consider changing over the front springs as the motion ratios etc could be different resulting in different spring rates to compensate. ie: Consider changing over all the front end components.

Your suspension bushes should also be checked.

Cheers

Peter

[Enchanter]

I have replaced the cross member, lower control arms, struts, shocks (new sports), springs (new lowered), steering linkages, replaced all bushes with urethane, replaces all ball joints and tie rod ends with new ones.

I have no doubt that the front track will be about 5cm (total) wider than original, and because they will be bolted upto the strut towers in the same spot as the original equipment the camber will be a touch different as well.

Im just unsure what this will do to the handeling when driving flat out, eg simmonds plains etc

Thanks

[Peter]

I suggest that you get an accurate wheel alignment prior to venturing out on the road or track. You can adjust any excessive camber change using the method described above.

Increased chassis stability when cornering will be achieved by fitting matched front and rear swaybars

Cheers
Peter