View Full Version : Kca313
SilentKilla
29-04-2007, 08:39 PM
Hey WL guys i have a question for you.
The soon to be released KCA313 kit for wrx..
You have a 10mm extension for the balljoint but another company has a 30mm extension, what difference would both sizes make in comparison to standard and each other?
And the tierod extension for this kit would be reliable? Another certain kit has had its tierod extensions fail with customers behind the wheel, it makes me a little worried about how much R&D has had to go into such a small thing to fix this issue.
Thanks for any info you can provide on this.
Wojtek
30-04-2007, 03:58 PM
Hi,
Just a few points to correct:
1. KCA313 is a ROLL CENTRE ADJUSTMENT kit, not a ball-joint extender or camber curve adjustment kit.
2. Following from point 1, our ball-joints are less then 10mm longer then OE, but exact specifications and their effect on the roll centre, roll couple and roll axis is company confidencial information. However, anyone that has some understanding about suspension geometry would appriciate the extreme and in our view excessive effects of a +30mm front ball joint extender on roll centre, roll couple and roll axis. We have plotted this and ours on our geometry analysis software, and I'll just say that we are very happy with our kit.
3. KCA313 consists of 2 specifically engineered replacement ball joints and 2 specifically engineered replacement tie-rod ends, not extenders.
Hope that this helps.
Regards,
Wojtek.
SilentKilla
30-04-2007, 06:40 PM
Sure does, thanks for the info ;)
Oh could this kit benefit a standard wrx or an sti, both with original springs?
Wojtek
01-05-2007, 02:57 PM
Oh could this kit benefit a standard wrx or an sti, both with original springs?Yes it will, but it is particulary beneficial on lowered vehicles.
Regards,
Wojtek.
SilentKilla
01-05-2007, 11:17 PM
but exact specifications and their effect on the roll centre, roll couple and roll axis is company confidencial information.
Ive got a fair bit of knowledge working with alignments (my job, of which i greatly enjoy) but have not had the opportunity to go to a course to explain the more detailed side of suspension geometry.
I dont mean to be patronizing but personally i want to know what im going to be buying, and not be told "its just good ok".
You guys at whiteline went to great lengths to show and explain to us what the ALK did for our geometry, why so shy now?
Wojtek
02-05-2007, 09:42 PM
You guys at whiteline went to great lengths to show and explain to us what the ALK did for our geometry, why so shy now?
That's exactly the point. I am sure you are aware of the number of ALK copies of our original design. I really wish I could tell you more details, as we have done our homework on this and could very easily back our claims and prove our design with real numbers, but unfortunately we must protect our intellectual property.
Regards,
Wojtek.
SilentKilla
02-05-2007, 11:56 PM
I guess your right on that count ;)
Whiteline innovates while the others replicate.
One of the things i do like about the other companies one is that it extends the standard balljoint so you dont need to buy a more expensive balljoint if it gives up the ghost. I assume the reason your one doesnt is it is to short?
Cant wait to get my hands on your new kit anyway, everything else on my car is whiteline and always will be ;)
Wojtek
04-05-2007, 11:00 AM
One of the things i do like about the other companies one is that it extends the standard balljoint so you dont need to buy a more expensive balljoint if it gives up the ghost. I assume the reason your one doesnt is it is to short? Yes, that is correct.
Wojtek.
Another Country
11-05-2008, 08:53 AM
Bringing this thread back up from the dead, I have a few questions.
What size wheels will this roll center kit work on?
Will it only work on 17" rims?
Will it work on 16" rims?
Is there a specific minimum amount of wheel backspacing required for this kit to work?
Will this work on a non-lowered car?
How low will a car need to have been lowered to gain optimal advantages of this kit?
I run both 16" and 17" rims, depending on the season and I am considering lowering my car. Actual amount of lowering is yet to be determined.
Thanks,
Mark
Wojtek
12-05-2008, 08:18 AM
Bringing this thread back up from the dead, I have a few questions.
What size wheels will this roll center kit work on?16" +
Will it only work on 17" rims?No.
Will it work on 16" rims?Yes.
Is there a specific minimum amount of wheel backspacing required for this kit to work?No. If using standard or lesser off-set wheels, spacers are not required, even on 16" wheels.
Will this work on a non-lowered car?Yes.....
How low will a car need to have been lowered to gain optimal advantages of this kit?20-40mm drop from standard.
I run both 16" and 17" rims, depending on the season and I am considering lowering my car. Actual amount of lowering is yet to be determined.
Thanks,
Mark
Regards,
Wojtek.
sadsack
31-05-2008, 04:30 AM
I notice that the shaft of the ball joints in the KCA313 are uncoated/unplated steel. I want to apply a light anti-rust coating (e.g. Phospho) to minimize any rust problems down the road.
Is there any reason that I shouldn't do this?
Thanks
Wojtek
02-06-2008, 07:13 AM
The shafts in the ball-joints should not be raw, they should be either plated or painted. Could it just look like to be uncoated?
But, applying anti-rust or even grease will not be a problem.
Regards,
Wojtek.
MY98STI
27-06-2008, 02:55 PM
I have a mate that just got one of these kits and I am about to grab one as well for my GC8 TypeR but there is an issue with getting the tapered parts off the shafts of the OEM ball joints to fit them onto his 03-04 STI's alloy control arms do you have any solutions for this either a trick to getting them off or a replacement part to suit?????
Wojtek
27-06-2008, 03:51 PM
Best thing to remove the steel tapered insert (alloy arm only) off the OE ball-joint is a bearing puller. You may also be able to use a press with suitable plates to hold the insert.
Hope that this helps.
Cheers,
Wojtek.
MY98STI
27-06-2008, 03:58 PM
Best thing to remove the steel tapered insert (alloy arm only) off the OE ball-joint is a bearing puller. You may also be able to use a press with suitable plates to hold the insert.
Hope that this helps.
Cheers,
Wojtek.
Cheers for the response your suggestion is what was going to be tried next so at least we are on the right path and we can put the C4 back in the cupboard until later :D
I wonder would it be hard to add the steel tapers as part of the KCA313 you guys normally don't miss anything and I personally wouldn't mind paying a little more for the item with them in there as well just makes fitment even quicker and stress free
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